A month in my home country

A taste of Spain

Life in London is just how it always was. It is the climate that does it. Some days it is ok but most days it is simply grey. I miss those glorious Madrid skies. Those days when you wake up to rain but know by lunchtime it will all be gone. In London, not only is it wet and grey but it is cold. Even when the sun shines a little it is cold. I know it is not fair to compare but it is true.

I am counting down the days until I can return and trying my best to enjoy being here. My love affair with London is over for the time being.

It has been a month and I am back in the swing of office life but I am missing my students and teaching more than I could have imagined a year ago. Roll back a year and I was in a very different place. It was in the middle of the Vaughan training course and hating every minute of what was supposed to be my future! I was doubting my ability to teach English that's for sure. I thought I could pass the course and it would be ok but it was not a system of learning and teaching that suited me. At the end of the week we went our separate ways and the next eleven months was a total exploration for me and a chance to learn what I really wanted from life. It was tough and I almost gave up but I got through.

I am reconnecting with old friends and habits - not all good - and find myself seeking the Spanish in London life. I went to the Taste of Spain festival in Regent Street and the highlight was a festival band from Segovia. I have found a native Spanish teacher to practise my Spanish with. I have joined a Spanish language meet up group and I am supporting Spain to win the World Cup. I spend at least an hour a day on learning Spanish and it is working!

I have a sense of urgency because I am going back to Madrid in October, I can't face another winter in London and have the chance to make the change. 

So my blog is going to be London focused for a few more months but hopefully with a Spanish flavour!   

El Capricho parque

A place to dream in nature's charms

El Capricho is a fifteen-minute metro ride from where I live and one of Madrid's precious green spaces. Open only at weekends,  it is free to visit and it is delightful. The gardens were built for the Duke and Duchess of Osuna in the 1780s and there are 14 hectares of green with an artificial river, mock temples, statues, a maze,  woods, roses and surprises at every corner. The gardens suffered at the hands of Napoleon's troops - who apparently shot the head gardener - and experienced decades of decay and destruction thereafter until they were finally taken over by the Communidad of Madrid in the 1970s. Now they are beautifully maintained and open to all and I have spent many hours here watching the people of Madrid enjoying their visit. 

El Capricho is a favourite site for wedding and communion photos and it is amusing to watch a bride stomping over the grass in satin heels, holding her skirts aloft or to see a little princess similarly attired, posing for her proud parents.  This bride and groom were accompanied by the smartest wedding photographers I have ever seen, in sharp suits and with the latest in equipment, I guessed this was a no-expenses spared union. The couples climb to the mock temple where they pose romantically  in the evening sun.

El Capricho is a popular place for families with small children who are dressed to impress rather than play. This nino was with his father and other male relatives and is typical of many of the children I see at weekends.

Impeccably dressed in an old fashioned and traditional style favoured by the upper classes, I feel sorry for these "mini-me" offspring constriicted by both class and clothing. How he must envy the casually dressed who are "allowed" to tumble and roll their way down the grassy slopes.

El Capricho is a place to connect with your inner child or poet. A place to muse or simply snooze. Eating, drinking, skating or cycling or not allowed. This garden of enlightenment is for the simple pleasures in life, so take a loved one or a book, a sketchpad, camera or a journal and let it work its magic and  know that there is a bar outside the main gates that welcomes visitors when the gates close at 9pm.

http://www.esmadrid.com/es/portal.do?TR=C&IDR=877

The biggest advertising noticeboard in the world?

or what ebay would look like if you cut it up and stuck it on a wall

This is one of the most creative advertising ideas I have seen in a long time. Ebay are trying to increase their take up in Madrid, a city that seems to frown on the idea of second hand buying and selling. So they decided to take over Callao metro station and paste up each and every page from the Madrid section of ebay onto the station walls - this ammounted to 7,000 adverts apparently

For the whole of January, commuters could browse images of items for sale and it was a great way to while away the minutes before the next train. I would love to know how effective it was for them and if ebay is taking off in Madrid!

Chocolateria at Marques de Vadillo on an evening in January

I must be the biggest fan of these places which are on street corners all over Madrid. If I could take one of these back to London with me I would! Chocolate and poros or churros is the perfect solution for meriendas on chilly winter's days. I never understood the desire for mixing hot sweet chocolate with greasy fried batter until winter came. I was a typical tourist and tried it because it was the done thing. Now I am converted! Cheap and cheerful, these snacks really hit the spot when you are freezing! I love the way that people from all ages and class partake of them - witness these well heeled ladies in their fur coats. I love the alchemy of the transformation of the batter in a cloud of steam to golden puffs of goodness. Miraculous! There is an art to eating them by the way. Nothing complicated, you simply dunk and eat. No breaking off bits to dip elegantly. It doesn't work! You will end up with chocolate on your chin and greasy fingers. Trust me!

Chinese New Year in Madrid part 2

A tiger in Alamudena Cementario

A return visit to the cemetery with M who was keen to experience this amazing place. It was Chinese New Year - Sunday 14 February - and with tigers on my mind, I soon spotted this beautiful cat basking in the late afternoon winter sun. He was one of several wild cats that were running around the ancient gravestones and making us feel like we were intruding on proceedings.

This time I caught the cemetery bus from my street and it was worth the ride -though the bus driver was perturbed that we didn't want to get off at the final stop but wanted to stay on board. 

We spent a couple of hours walking around and I revisited some of the places I found on my first trip. As dusk fell we were rewarded with some stunning skies and some great photographs.

A short bus ride and I was soon defrosting at one of my favourite chocolaterias -  in Manuel Becerra. This is when chocolate and poros or churros makes total sense. I was cold and hungry and it was definitely time for merienda!

From here it was a metro ride to Plaza Espana to catch the end of the Chinese exhibition before we went downstairs to the cafeteria that I had read about but never been to. It is a great place, serving authentic Chinese food from a short menu. We had some delicious won ton soup, stir fried greens, dumplings and noodles (traditional at New Year for long life). There is an excellent Chinese foodstore next door so I stocked up on some noodles and soy sauce and will be back soon for their tofu and dumplings. It was great to be able to spend New Year with a Chinese friend and to eat so authentically. Perfect end to a great weekend!

Maty in Madrid

It's carnaval time (apparently)!

There is a landmark store in Madrid called Maty where you can buy or hire your costumes for fiestas, carnaval and any other occasion. It is close to El Corte Ingles in Sol and its windows are a irresistible attraction to me. Last Sunday I was bedazzled by the latest offerings. Maty has the scariest selection of shop dummies I have ever seen. The little people are frankly weird. There is something disturbing about their made up faces and lopsided wigs. Add a provocative pose, eager expresseion and a tawdry costume and you can see where I am coming from.

Shop window displays fascinate me and say a lot about the culture of a city. The windows in London are so sophisticated in comparison. Here you will see windows that cram every type of product within. Shoe shops are like I remember them and have are wall-to-wall boxes in size order inside. There are windows full of pyjamas and dressing gowns at the moment, thermal underwear (reversable polar tights look interesting), knitwear and costume jewellery. And most shops have their rebajas right now because it is January and times are hard.

The day the snow came

8am in Madrid on Monday 11 January 2010

It doesn't snow very often in Madrid and this was the second time this winter. While I was sleeping, the snow crept into the streets and left a soft blanket over the city's landmarks. I went to my early morning class at Calle de Alcala and took photos of the waking city. It was the first day back to work for many people - myself included - and we blinked in wonder as we shuffled along.

I wish I could have spent the morning exploring with my camera and capturing scenes of statues with snow highlighting their curves and crevasses. The Retiro park looked like wonderland when glimpsed from my passing bus. The trees sparkled with frosted leaves and as this is Madrid, the fountains played on.

My family - including the extensions - summer 2009

I was going to write a Queen-like message on here for Christmas Day but couldn't get this picture to upload. I have had a really good time back in London and feel reconnected with my family and friends.

There are some significant people missing in this photo who have had a tough year in 2009. I am praying for a better year for them in 2010.

We all have exciting times ahead of us and I have another five months of my adventures in Madrid. Belated christmas wishes!

Seasonally affected ...

Last weekend the clocks went back. It didn't feel like the big event it usually is for me when I am in London. For the first time in five years I was not dreading the moment that signified shorter days and long, dark nights. I am in Spain and the days may be getting shorter but the light is still good here. Today it was also 25 degrees so I had no excuse not to smile.

In my class this afternoon I taught my students all about "spring forward and fall backwards" and we had a good session where we revised telling the time in English and discussed the impact of changing the clocks. I told them how I look forward to the 21st of December, the winter equinox, when the days start to lengthen again. Now it is really autumn and the nights are getting darker earlier. I have no light box here so I am relying on the natural light to keep away my SAD. It is going to be an interesting experiment!

Tomorrow I have an interview to see if I can teach some classes in the mornings. Now this is going to be a real challenge for me to see if I can get up at 6.30 in the morning. I need the work so I am going to give it a go. Teaching is proving a nightmare here at the moment with cancelled classes every day. It seems the answer is to take on slightly more than I need and can do and then hope that some of them cancel each week - ideally on the same day so that I get paid too. This is not how I imagined my life in Madrid!

Tea in Madrid

A favourite place for tea is La Mallorquina which overlooks Puerta del Sol

I missed La Mallorquina when it closed for its summer break in August. This is the place where I meet my English friends. It is the perfect place for tea and cake. The tea is served in one of those tiny stainless steel teapots with a lid that doesn't quite fit. The waiter will bring you some cold milk - ask or you will get it hot!

This places embodies perfection in catering for me. The best location, an upstairs room with a picture window for people watching, simple decor with real tablecloths, smartly dressed and efficient waiters and great food and drinks. La Mallorquina is a Madrid institution. Downstairs you can buy cakes and sweets from the busy counters and you can perch at the sweeping curved chrome bar if you are short of time.

Upstairs is the tea room which is a haven for weary shoppers and thirsty tourists. The menu is translated into English but still leaves me wondering. This time I have tea and a palm which turns out to be a heartshaped pastry "enrobed" in thick delicious chocolate. The waiters are dressed in black trousers, white shirts, burgundy waistcoats and a bow tie. They carry the ubiquitous white napkin and move swiftly amongst the tables.

There is something about La Mallorquina that reminds me of those old fashioned tearooms you find in English seaside resorts. It's the wooden utilitarian furniture that has faded in the sun, the decor that has not changed for over fifty years, the plain white crockery, the simplicity of the menu. If this were England I would be contemplating cheese on toast and scones with jam. There might be a tomato to squeeze ketchup from and a dish of tired looking sugar cubes. There would definintely be a slightly damp smell from the sea and mouldering wood. The downside of English tearooms is that they always close at 5 and you are left with a gap of two hours before the evening trade begins in pubs and restaurants. La Mallorquina is open to 9.15pm and the perfect start to any night in Madrid.

The summer is over . . .

I took a break along with everyone else in Madrid for the month of August as it was too hot to think, sleep, work and write! I am back from a two week vacation in London and ready to start the new working year so get ready for lots of stories about teaching English in this amazing city.

But before I start working again, I am going to post a few stories from my summer holidays! Starting with this dog I met one sunset evening at Debod, the Egyptian temple. The younger dogs were bouncing around in the water and chasing a ball but this old fellah was going nowhere fast. Dogs are a feature of life in Madrid and I love meeting and taking their photos so here is one for my dog-allery!

Tapas talk - 1

I am not the first to write about tapas and I will not be the last. It is one of the pleasures of living in Spain and I am going to start blogging my favourite bars so I know where to go back to. That is, I will write about the ones that I remember going to in the first place!

Today I went to Casa Labra which was opened in 1860 and is in Calle de Tetuan. It is right next to El Corte Ingles in Sol and it is a piece of living history. According to the plaque on the wall, it is where the Socialist Party was founded in 1879. It is truly authentic in every way. You can sit outside on high chairs and tables, you can hang out at the bar or you can go through to the salon and sit at a marble topped table. This bar is renowned for its two cod tapas - croquetas and mini fillets in batter. They also do a really nice mixed salad so that was lunch sorted!

The decor is brown and khaki green, enlivened with mirrors and original hat racks. The light fittings are old and so is the metal signage. The staff are attentive and the food is as good as it looks. This is a legend amongst tapas bars and I will definitely be heading back some time soon for more of that cod.

The museum where you can see and touch

Jose demonstrates one of the models from the Tiflogico Museum in Madrid

Opened on 14 December 1992, the museum is the first in Spain designed for blind and partially sighted visitors where they can touch all the exhibits. The space is designed to be as accessible as possible with appropriate decor, lighting and layout to help people navigate the space with ease. There are tactile plans for each of the floors with braille and large print notices and there are audio descriptions as part of the displays.

The museum is divided into three areas and covers: large tactile models of famous Spanish and global architectural monuments, permanent and temporary art displays and a collection of archive equipment for people with sight loss, including early braille machinery and talking book players. I was interested to see at least two pieces of equipment with the old RNIB logo and strapline. The museum is owned by Once, the national organisation for people with sight loss in Spain. Once operates a daily lottery which funds the bulk of its work and there are examples from the archives of lottery tickets in the display. I have mixed feelings about the lottery. Yes, it employs employment for many people with sight loss who either sit in the streets or in specially designed booths to sell the tickets. However I worry that this provision is preventing people from pursuing other work options and that it creates a stereotype in the minds of the general public in terms of what people with sight loss can do.

I visited the museum with a young blind man, Jose, who is 27 years old and seeking work as a stenographer. He has recently taken his public exams and is waiting to hear if he has gained employment. Bright and articulate, he is desperate to work. He has studied hard and has to wait at least another six weeks for his results. I met Jose at an English Speaking meet up group that I attend on Friday evenings. He is completely blind and we became firm friends when he discovered that my connections to RNIB and he invited me to visit the museum with him as a guide.

I enjoyed my visit and especially liked the Spanish monuments. Each model has been made in a variety of styles and materials and it is good to be able to get an idea of the scale of the various cathedrals and cities including the Alhambra in Granada, the city of Toledo, the cathedrals of Burgos and Santiago de Compostela and so much more! The craftmentship of each model is evident and the artistry of interpretation of buildings such as the Sagrada Familia is impressive. I was less impressed with the models of the Statue of Liberty and London's Tower Bridge I am afraid. I also enjoyed the sculptures and other artworks on display. They are all well lit and beautifully presented.

I met Estrella, who was the guide for the day, and we had a good conversation about the role of the museum and its impact. Once offers a service to other museums to help them improve the accessibility of their collections to people with sight loss and the Reina Sofia in Madrid has been particularly keen to work in partnership in this area. Estrella is an art historian and was able to tell me about other museums and galleries in Europe that have similar collections to Madrid, if on a smaller scale. The museum is providing an exemplar experience for people with sight loss and promotes the exhibition and interpretation of work by blind and partially sighted artists in a way that we can all learn from. This small museum is an interesting way to spend a few hours out of the sun on a visit to Madrid.

http://www.museo.once.es/

Sundays at Casa de Campo

A tiny creature - not a leech - we met near the pool in the cool green grass

My new swimming pool is next to the metro at Lago and I love it! It is actually three pools but I stick to the big pool with terraces designed for adults. The pool is two metres sixty centimetres of deep blue water and surrounded by mature trees. Floating in the centre on my back with the sun on my face is bliss! There are leafy glades around the pools where families spend the best part of the day and where we find tiny insects amongst the blades of grass. It is a municipal pool so the changing facilities are basic and the showers are cold - and there are no lockers! The "peg bag clothes" hanger is filled and handed in to the cloakroom and valuables are left at home. There is a cafeteria here and also an open air public lending library!

The swimming pool is a great place to meet people. They are soon drawn to my English voice and I chat as I float and kick. I have met a Guatamalean head hunter and an Argentinian actress in this way! I swim until the sun goes down and they have to chase me out. The pool closes at 9 and after dressing, it's picnic-time.

Here we have the lakeside where the empty cafes and restaurants are desperate for trade in this crisis-hit summer. I love the lake and watching the people who go by. This is a busy area for couple-dom! There are gay guys cruising, young people are entwined on the grass, transvestite prostitutes patrol the avenue from the metro, families take supper and waiters serve ice-clinking drinks.

The first time we were here, we tucked into our homemade tortilla, fresh salads, fruit and bread and never had food tasted so good. As we ate, fireworks exploded overhead and across the city like a scene in a movie.

Later, there was a commotion at the metro. The police were out in force and there was broken beer bottle glass on the ground. We had missed the weekly sparring of people from Ecquador who come here to drink and fight. Now they are standing in family groups and it is quiet. Nearby I saw the gay man with the tartan shopping trolley who services the park people at night with I know not what. Possibily condoms or illegal booze. We talk to a young woman who works as a security guard at the station and she tells us about what happens here. She is frank with us, describing how she can use her baton to contain violence and which parts of the body she is allowed to hit - no bones and no head! She is matter of fact in that way of people who have seen it all before. I wonder if she goes home to a nice partner who hugs her. I hope so.

Vending books

When travelling out of Madrid from Monchloa bus station, take a look a the vending machines on the way. Alongside the usual water, soft drinks and snack machines, you will find a machine that will sell you Spanish version paperback books and one that supplies bouquets of fresh flowers!

Al mal tiempo, buene cara!

The lake next to the Crystal Palace in the Retiro park on a very hot summer's day in July

It's been a while since my last post due to life getting in the way of my time to reflect. However the writing and the photography never stops so here are a few catch up posts to kick off a new month.

August is the month when Madrid is handed over to the tourists. The real Madrid people have headed off for mountains or beach. My favourite cafeteria La Mallorquina is closed for a month and the metro is full of the sounds of Brits on the loose. There is no work now and so apart from my private students I have no teaching to do but lots of time to write and to explore and get ready for the autumn. No teaching means no income however, so I am going to be living on sunshine and iced tap water for a few weeks and picnics in the Retiro.

My friend Yolanda was here for a week and it was good to step back from the stress of trying to do and find work and to have a few days to see the city through tourist eyes. I fell in love with Madrid all over again!

Proud to be here

A Spanish dancing queen at Gay Pride

Gay Pride is pretty much the same wherever you go in the world. I usually rock up to the London one and I have to say it usually rains on the parade. So it was a joy to be in the heat of a traffic-free central Madrid. We spent several hours in Gran Via, which is like being in Oxford Circus in London. We turned our noses up at the balloons decorating the large MacDonalds, metaphorically spitting on their rainbow printed fans complete with golden arches, and headed up the road to park ourselves outside a balconied hotel. Here we were entertained by slim young men in mini kilts and musclebound chaps of varying age and ethnicity wearing a variety of thongs and not much else.

The balcony guys were great fun and when the big red bus blasted out YMCA we all danced and it was a hoot to see how many balcony guys were not up to speed with the moves (or too cool!). Caught up in the drama of the day, I really enjoyed getting into the parade and taking photos of some of the amazing characters. There were people there who would have spent the best part of the day getting ready - defuzzing, slapping on body paint and glitter, slipping in falsies, putting on wigs and feathery angel wings and climbing onto their stilettos and platform shoes. Not surprisingly they were more than happy to be photographed or danced with. And for every drag queen or gorgeous glitter boy, there were hundreds of ordinary gay men and women who walked the streets in pride, reminding us what this party is all about.

A quiet older man in a pastel floral shirt and peach-coloured shorts stood in the crowd as if bewildered by the exuberance and yet he was smiling. How he has seen things change I thought to myself and tears of joy came to me. I am so grateful to live in a part of the world that is so open and accepting. For a moment I held my gay family members and friends in my thoughts and was glad. There is still much to be done to sweep away all barriers and prejudice but not on 4 July in Madrid. On this day the city was all theirs and the party was set to go on long into the night.

Getting connected

Looks like a triffid but this is actually part of the Vertical Garden at La CaixaForum

After trying to purchase a new pay as you go phone from the larger stores in Madrid and failing spectacularly, I decided to shop local last night. There is in fact a tiny Vodaphone store in my area and it is a slice of retail heaven. I wandered in at 8.20pm and was out of the door in 20 minutes with the perfect, cheapest little phone. It was exactly 19 euros and it is a Samsung so I can easily navigate it. The Spanish girls in the store were delightful and enjoyed dealing with the English lady! They even gave me a red Vodaphone sock to put my new baby in. So thank you Angelica for being such a star and don't worry, if I have any problems I will be back!

Now I have a Spanish number I can really get started on advertising for private students. This is going to be interesting. I have to get my head round where to promote myself and when and where to hold lessons. I am also actively promoting my publishing skills and I am optimistic that some work will come that way as there must be lots of proof reading required!

It is not easy to stay positive but I keep at it and stay living in the present moment as far as I can. I remind myself that being here is what I have wanted for a long time. I can't explain why Madrid called me and no other city. Something to do with the climate and the people - plus the art and cultural life. It is a great city!

A little bit of heaven in Madrid

A "mistifying" fan on a hot afternoon in Madrid.

Today was a tourist day - or rather an "explore the city" day since I am not officially on holiday here. It began with a visit to the underground station at Chamberi that is now a museum. It was closed in 1966 when the platform could not be extended - due to the curve of the track. We spend far too long trying to locate the entrance which turned out to be a modern glass structure on the street corner that I have seen many times before and not known what it was! How easy it is to wander around a city and not actually see things!

The station is worth a quick visit as it really is a time-capsule from another era. I loved the utilitarian look of the ticket office with its white ceramic tiles. The strange thing about this station is that the modern day trains still rush by behind glass barriers. The passengers are unaware of our presence on the dimly lit platforms.

The platforms are adorned with stunning, colourful tiles that make up advertisements for a range of products and services, the most notable being Gal which appears at the end of each platform. The typography for each advert is either cast into the tiles which suggests to me that the adverts would have been set into the walls of all the stations on the line or hand painted by real craftsmen. As a film enthusiast, I enjoyed the black and white films that were playing out on the opposite platform to a musical soundtrack. Every time a modern train passed by, the images of people and places from the 1900s were caught for seconds on their sides.

After tapas in a stylish restaurant called Santa Barbara, it was time for some more exploring. I headed off in the blazing sunshine to the Circulo de bellas artes where I found my idea of heaven. I sat in a whicker chair on the terrace by a fan that sprayed a fine mist of water on grateful customers. I sipped a milkshake for far too long and then enjoyed a leisurely diet coke (ironically served with peanuts) and managed to stay here for at least 90 minutes. What a great place to people watch! To update Facebook on my phone. To draft my CV. To write down all my phone numbers in a book in case I lose my mobile again. OK it is not the cheapest place for a drink but it was worth every euro!

I visited a couple of the photographic displays and really enjoyed the work of Patrick Faigenbaum, a German photographer who is known for his portraiture and particularly for his black and white tableaux of Italian aristocracy. I really loved his work and could see instantly that he was once a painter. I also enjoyed his still life images of fruit, especially that of lemons on a dark background.

There was a strange exhibition focusing on the production, consumption and recycling of products. The best bit was crunching around on the polystyrene packaging chips on the floor that swirled like snow.

Summer equinox in Madrid

Another quirky window display - I spotted this on my Sunday ramble.

Walking the streets of Madrid is the best way to see the city - as it is anywhere! As long as one doesn't linger too long on the corners around Gran Via in the evenings it is fine. Last night I had a good walk from Attocha station past the Cine Doree (home of the Spanish Filmteque) where I could have actually seen a film in English (it was the Piano so I passed up) and on to the Iglesia San Isidoro which is the most amazing cathedral. It used to be part of a Jesuit college and the interior is stunning. I was able to light some lights in memory of the Putticks and take some quiet time to reflect and think about them. I say light lights because that is what happens here. No candles, you pop your cents in a slot and the relevant number of lights come on. I lit a couple extra for good measure for all my friends and family.

From here, it was a short stroll to the Plaza Mayor and it was the first time I have been here when all the tables are out and everyone is relaxing over their beers in the evening sunshine. Previous visits have been in November when the atmosphere is completely different. I wanted to find a very special shop in Calle Mayor but was distracted by the discovery of Mercado de San Miguel which is the most beautiful place to meet and try out snacks and have drinks. I had a lovely glass of cava and some fishy canapes and even a glass of sangria! I promise to take all my friends there!

This walk has given me the idea of creating a foodie ramble so I am going to actively seek out the places that the guide books mention and sample their wares. For example I love the place in Sol where you eat and drink standing up at formica counters and apparently there is more old fashioned formal waiter service upstairs. Review to come ...


Nick in Cornwall sent me a text to remind me that the days start to shorten from 22 June and I find that so hard to believe when I am here. The sun is so bright and the routine of being out at night and taking a siesta is perfect for me. I am sure my SAD would be a thing of the past if I could stay in Spain or somewhere similar for the winter.