A matter of life and death in Nunhead cemetery

Free films in my local area! What's not to like? Even better, the films are in special outdoor settings. Last night it was one of my all time favourites A Matter of Life and Death (affectionately known as AMOLAD) in my local cemetery. Apparently it was the overall winner in a poll to decide what should be shown in this new festival and was an inspired choice. The screening was at 8pm and there were seats for 120 - everyone else had to bring their folding chairs or take a chance on the gravel. Blankets were recommended and alcohol was strictly forbidden so I set off with an extra cardi and a flask of coffee.

There was only space for 250 and apparently 100 people were turned away at the gate. Tickets were a strip of 35mm film (still trying to work out what mine is from). I was soon happily seated and enjoying the atmosphere as the skies darkened and we were treated to animation films by local children. Then a total surprise for me. A screening of a British Transport Films (BTF) classic from the 1950s, The Elephant will Never Forget. Directed by Edgar Anstey, this short film is about the last tram in south London and it is a gem. I had a job in the 1980s where I marketed the BTF documentary films on video and met Anstey and many of the crew from that great era. I had seen the Elephant film many times and it was a good experience to see it again after ten years. Tears of nostalgia were soon flowing and were even more so when the main film began.

I am fortunate to have met Michael Powell, Jack Cardiff, Holly Hunter and Joan Maude. I am particularly glad to have known Joan who I spent several days with in her home in Lewes. She became a good friend and she delighted in sharing her stories of acting in the 1930s in films like Turn of the Tide (1936) and, of course AMOLAD. She could have had a long career in film but chose to retire when she married her husband, a newspaper editor.

The last time I saw AMOLAD was a special screening at London's Barbican cinema. Joan was there with another dear friend, Eric Cross who was a cameraman on Turn of the Tide. I often forget that I knew these remarkable people who were at the forefront of the British film industry. Last night I remembered them all and in the perfect setting.

So thank you to the folk that put this event together and for all the others that they are running over the next few days.Blues Brothers on Peckham Common, Nosferatu on the top floor of the multi storey car park. Inspired!

Chinese New Year in Madrid part 2

A tiger in Alamudena Cementario

A return visit to the cemetery with M who was keen to experience this amazing place. It was Chinese New Year - Sunday 14 February - and with tigers on my mind, I soon spotted this beautiful cat basking in the late afternoon winter sun. He was one of several wild cats that were running around the ancient gravestones and making us feel like we were intruding on proceedings.

This time I caught the cemetery bus from my street and it was worth the ride -though the bus driver was perturbed that we didn't want to get off at the final stop but wanted to stay on board. 

We spent a couple of hours walking around and I revisited some of the places I found on my first trip. As dusk fell we were rewarded with some stunning skies and some great photographs.

A short bus ride and I was soon defrosting at one of my favourite chocolaterias -  in Manuel Becerra. This is when chocolate and poros or churros makes total sense. I was cold and hungry and it was definitely time for merienda!

From here it was a metro ride to Plaza Espana to catch the end of the Chinese exhibition before we went downstairs to the cafeteria that I had read about but never been to. It is a great place, serving authentic Chinese food from a short menu. We had some delicious won ton soup, stir fried greens, dumplings and noodles (traditional at New Year for long life). There is an excellent Chinese foodstore next door so I stocked up on some noodles and soy sauce and will be back soon for their tofu and dumplings. It was great to be able to spend New Year with a Chinese friend and to eat so authentically. Perfect end to a great weekend!

Cementerio de nuestra senora de la Almudena

The cemetery is on the edge of the city and the urban landscape is all around its expanding walls

This visit has been on my to-do list for some months now. I love visiting old cemeteries as I am interested in both history and culture and cemeteries tell us much about a city and its people. This one is described as being 160 times the size of the Real Madrid football pitch and I can believe it. It was opened in 1884 and it has already extended beyond its original plan. It is a 20 minute walk from where I live and the grand entrance with an angel-topped chapel is impressive. There are many famous people buried here, especially political figures. Alongside the main cemetery is the civil cemetery where foreigners are buried along with socialists, communists and freemasons. The small walled Jewish cemetery is here too.

Fortunately I had a magazine article with me - published in English - which helped us to identify landmark graves and to read something of their history.

The highlight for me was the site of the massacre of 13 young women in 1939 who were executed (along with 43 men) as reprisal for the assassination of a police chief and his daughter. The old red brick walls remain in silent tribute to their memory and bear plaques to their memory.

We wandered the paths for around six hours in the January sunshine. There was so much to see and explore. The cemetery is in an unusual design, reminiscent of a Greek cross, and there are many walls with plaques and niches as well as individual graves and ornate mausolea. There are gaudy fake flowers everywhere - many tucked into the crevasses of the religious statuary. There are also trees and I even spotted some ivy in the darker corners.

The Civil Cemetery is across the road from the main cemetery and it was here that we found graves of leading socialists, communists, artists, writers, politicians and foreigners who were not allowed to be buried in the hallowed grounds across the street. Pablo Iglesia for example, who founded the PSOE and is remembered with a grand monument that belies the modest man it honours.

From the higher levels at the centre of the cemetery I could see the snowcapped mountains that surround Madrid and the sentinel four towers to the north of the city. I could also see across to the telecommunications tower that is close to my street and beyond to the motorway with its speeding cars.

View to the snowcapped mountains and the famous four towers in northern Madrid